The Body’s Scaffolding

Collagen — a protein that binds tissues — is often called the body’s scaffolding.

“It’s the glue that holds the body together,” says New York dermatologist Whitney Bowe, author of The Beauty of Dirty Skin: The Surprising Science of Looking and Feeling Radiant from the Inside Out.

She says collagen makes up about 75% of the dry weight of your skin, providing volume that keeps skin looking plump and keeps lines at bay. It’s also rich in in the amino acids proline and glycine, which you need to maintain and repair your tendons, bones, and joints.

“As we get older, we break it down faster than we can replace it,” she says.

Injecting collagen has fallen out of favor in many medical skin care practices, since it doesn’t last as long as other fillers and tends to prompt allergic reactions. And when it’s put on the skin, it doesn’t absorb well and doesn’t work often, Bowe says.

When she learned a few years ago that people were eating it instead to make their skin look more youthful, she was skeptical. But she has since changed her mind.

“Just in the last few years, there have been some impressive studies showing that ingestible collagen can indeed impact the appearance of skin,” says Bowe.

One 2014 study of 69 women ages 35 to 55 found that those who took 2.5 or 5 grams of collagen daily for 8 weeks showed a lot of improvement in skin elasticity, compared with those who didn’t take it.

The science is truly in its infancy.

Mark Moyad, MD, University of Michigan Medical Center

Another found that women who took 1 gram per day of a chicken-derived collagen supplement for 12 weeks had 76% less dryness, 12% fewer visible wrinkles, better blood flow in the skin, and a 6% higher collagen content.

But Moyad, author of The Supplement Handbook: A Trusted Expert’s Guide to What Works and What’s Worthless for More Than 100 Conditions, says many of the studies done so far on collagen are small and at least partially funded by industry.

“The science is truly in its infancy,” he says. “There’s a lot of conflict of interest, and not enough quality control.”

But he, too, believes it may hold promise.

Other dermatologists question how well it will work.

Augusta, GA-based dermatologist Lauren Eckert Ploch says stomach acids break down collagen proteins you eat before they reach the skin intact. “It is unlikely that someone would see any benefit from it.”

As a protein source alone, collagen is a good one, packing in more protein per calorie than other sources while containing less sodium and sugar. And Moyad finds the evidence suggesting it may improve body composition, joint health, and healing rates intriguing.

One recent study of 53 elderly men with sarcopenia, a loss of muscle caused by aging, found that those who took 15 grams of collagen daily, in addition to lifting weights three times per week for 3 months, gained significantly more muscle and lost more fat than those who only lifted weights.

Another study of 89 long-term care residents with pressure ulcers found that those who took collagen supplements three times daily for 8 weeks saw their wounds heal twice as fast.

And, while research is mixed, a few studies have shown collagen supplements to help with arthritis pain and sports-related joint pain.

How to Choose

If you are interested in trying collagen, doctors agree that it’s important to choose wisely.

I think collagen is interesting and there is some data out there suggesting benefit, but I prefer for my patients to eat food.

Valori Treloar, MD, dermatologist and nutritionist

Look for companies that get their bones and tissues from cage-free, free-range, and antibiotic-free sources.

“It might help, and it probably won’t harm, unless you are not being diligent about quality control,” says Moyad.

And steer clear of fancy mixtures that combine collagen with probiotics, fiber, or other additives, which could interact with the collagen and change how well it works.

Mora says she did that, and she’s convinced it has helped her.

“My goal is not to look like I am 20, but rather to look good for my age,” she says.